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September 27th-29th 2000:
They are wonderful to visit: like Roman copies of Greek statues, these temples are in much better condition than the originals from which they were copied.
It's hot in Aswan, and here in the Temple of Philae we suck on our Camelbacks to stay hydrated.
Ba, the God of Music. His Sacred Attribute was a rockin' set of earphones.
Philae's temple walls were hit especially hard by zealous early Christians. Here one can see the Coptic Cross on Isis' abdomen. Not to be outdone, the Muslims came along later and put their own symbols on her thigh. Ecumenical tattoos.
Aswan today feels like the last outpost of a great Empire. The Old Cataract Hotel is fit to welcome any Pasha or King.
While at the souq they could find whatever their harem desired.
The Aswan souq (market) was the most fun and characterful of all the souqs on the Nile. Kathleen tries on a galabiyya.
Built by Ramses II to inform those entering Egypt from the south of the might and power of Pharaoh, this monument once stood next to the flowing Nile. But the Nile shifted, Egypt shrank and desert sands flowed in. Over millennia this temple was lost to human knowledge. Rediscovered in 1813, only the leftmost head and the tip of a crown were visible.
Inside is a rare depiction of Pharaoh giving mercy to captives -- at the request of Ramses wife.
Ra is rightmost, followed by Ramses II as a god, then Amun. The leftmost god is Ptah, God of Darkness. His statue is never touched by the sun's rays.
That was when they discovered a crack in the granite. They had to walk away and leave it: The Unfinished Obelisk. |
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